Retinol has long been one of skincare's most talked-about ingredients for ageing skin. But in recent years, another ingredient has been appearing on bathroom shelves: Bakuchiol.
Often described as a natural alternative to retinol, Bakuchiol has gained attention for its ability to support smoother, more even-looking skin, without some of the dryness and irritation commonly associated with retinol.
But are Bakuchiol and retinol actually the same? Does Bakuchiol really work? And if you're looking to support your skin as it changes with age, which one should you choose?
Let's take a closer look.
What is Bakuchiol?
Bakuchiol, pronounced "bah-koo-chee-ol", is a naturally occurring compound most commonly obtained from the seeds and leaves of Psoralea corylifolia, also known as the Babchi plant.
It has a long history of use in traditional Ayurvedic and Chinese practices, but its place in modern skincare comes from research into the way it interacts with the skin.
Interestingly, Bakuchiol isn't chemically related to retinol.
Instead, researchers have found that it can influence some of the same processes associated with skin ageing, which is why you'll often hear it described as a "retinol alternative" or "retinol-like" ingredient.
That's an important distinction.
Bakuchiol isn't natural retinol. It is its own ingredient, with some similar skincare benefits.
What is retinol?
Retinol is a form of vitamin A and belongs to the wider retinoid family.
Retinoids have been studied in dermatology for decades and have a substantial body of research behind them. They can help support skin cell turnover and collagen production and are commonly used to improve the appearance of fine lines, uneven pigmentation and skin texture.
Retinol is available in cosmetic skincare products, while stronger forms of retinoids may be prescribed by a doctor or dermatologist.
They're highly effective ingredients for many people, but there's a catch.
Retinol can also cause dryness, peeling, redness, stinging and irritation, particularly when you first begin using it or if your skin is naturally dry or sensitive.
And that's one reason Bakuchiol has generated so much interest.
Bakuchiol vs retinol: what's the difference?
The simplest answer is that they are different ingredients that can produce some similar effects in the skin.
Retinol is a vitamin A derivative.
Bakuchiol is a plant-derived compound.
Both have been studied for their potential to improve visible signs of skin ageing, including fine lines, pigmentation and texture, but the amount of research behind each is very different.
Retinoids have decades of clinical research behind them.
Bakuchiol is much newer to modern skincare research, so while the results so far are encouraging, the evidence base is considerably smaller.
We think that's an important part of the conversation.
Natural skincare doesn't need exaggerated claims to be exciting. We would much rather explain what we know, what the research suggests and where there is still more to learn.
So, does Bakuchiol actually work?
There is promising evidence that it does.
One of the best-known studies directly compared Bakuchiol with retinol over 12 weeks.
In the randomised, double-blind study, 44 participants used either a 0.5% Bakuchiol cream twice a day or a 0.5% retinol cream once a day.
Both groups experienced significant improvements in wrinkle surface area and hyperpigmentation, with no statistically significant difference between the two groups.
There was, however, an interesting difference in how the ingredients were tolerated.
People using retinol reported more scaling and stinging than those using Bakuchiol.
It's an encouraging finding, particularly for people who want to support ageing skin but struggle with stronger active ingredients.
It is worth keeping some perspective too. Bakuchiol research is still developing, and reviews of the available clinical studies have noted that many trials are small or combine Bakuchiol with other ingredients.
So while Bakuchiol shows real promise, we wouldn't suggest that the evidence behind it is equal to the decades of research behind retinoids just yet.
What are the benefits of Bakuchiol?
For us, the attraction of Bakuchiol isn't simply that it's natural.
It's the combination of performance and gentleness.
Research suggests Bakuchiol may help improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, uneven pigmentation, skin texture and visible signs of sun-related skin ageing.
There is also emerging research into its role in blemish-prone skin.
That makes it an interesting ingredient for anyone wanting to support healthier-looking skin as it changes with age, without immediately reaching for a particularly aggressive routine.
And that fits our philosophy at The Herb Farm rather well.
We believe healthy ageing is less about trying to erase every sign of getting older and more about giving your skin what it needs to stay nourished, resilient and healthy-looking.
Is Bakuchiol better for sensitive skin?
It can be.
Bakuchiol tends to be better tolerated than retinol in the clinical research available so far, which can make it an appealing option for people whose skin becomes dry or irritated when using retinol.
But we don't think any skincare ingredient should be described as guaranteed to suit sensitive skin.
Even natural ingredients can cause irritation or an allergic reaction in some people.
If you know your skin is particularly sensitive or reactive, introduce new products gradually and consider patch testing first.
Your skin doesn't care how popular an ingredient is. It cares whether that ingredient suits you.
Is Bakuchiol good for mature skin?
This is probably where Bakuchiol becomes particularly interesting.
As we get older, changes in collagen, natural oils, moisture levels and skin renewal can leave the skin feeling drier and looking less firm or even in tone.
For many women, hormonal changes during perimenopause and menopause can influence the skin further.
Supporting mature skin doesn't necessarily require the strongest active ingredient you can find.
A good routine should help nourish the skin, maintain hydration, support the skin barrier and target the particular concerns that matter to you.
Bakuchiol can fit beautifully into that approach because it offers an active step focused on visible signs of ageing while generally being well tolerated.
Can you use Bakuchiol during the day?
Unlike retinol, Bakuchiol is not known to have the same issues around skin irritation and sun sensitivity and is often formulated for either morning or evening use.
However, that doesn't mean sun protection becomes optional.
Ultraviolet exposure is one of the major contributors to premature visible skin ageing, so daily sun protection remains one of the most useful things you can do for your skin regardless of whether your routine contains Bakuchiol, retinol or neither.
What about Bakuchiol and pregnancy?
This is an area where we want to be particularly careful about some of the claims you'll find online.
Retinoids are generally avoided during pregnancy, and dermatologists recommend discussing skincare containing retinoids with your healthcare professional if you are pregnant or planning a pregnancy.
Bakuchiol is frequently promoted as a pregnancy-friendly alternative to retinol.
However, there isn't currently enough pregnancy-specific research for us to say that Bakuchiol has been definitively proven safe during pregnancy.
If you're pregnant, breastfeeding or trying to conceive, we recommend discussing active skincare ingredients with your midwife, GP or other healthcare professional if you're unsure.
How do you use Bakuchiol in a skincare routine?
Like most active skincare ingredients, more isn't necessarily better.
We prefer introducing Bakuchiol gradually and seeing how your skin responds.
Our Transforming Bakuchiol Face Oil can be used in the evening after cleansing and serum. Start with around three evenings a week and gradually increase towards nightly use if your skin is comfortable.
Massage three to four drops gently into cleansed skin.
If you have oily skin, you may find the oil provides enough nourishment on its own. Normal to dry skin can follow with a face cream.
Consistency is far more important than throwing every active ingredient in your bathroom cabinet onto your skin at once.
Why did we choose Bakuchiol?
When we formulated our Transforming Bakuchiol Face Oil, we wanted an active product that fitted The Herb Farm's approach to healthy skin.
The formula contains 2% Bakuchiol, alongside a blend of plant oils chosen to nourish and support the skin.
Rosehip oil provides naturally occurring fatty acids and antioxidants, while hemp seed and sweet almond oils help nourish the skin. Our formula also includes calendula infused in sweet almond oil.
It gives you the targeted benefits of Bakuchiol within a rich botanical facial oil that also helps replenish and nourish the skin.
It's particularly suited to those looking to support visible signs of ageing, uneven-looking skin or blemish-prone skin as part of a consistent routine.
Bakuchiol or retinol: which should you choose?
There isn't one answer that is right for everyone.
If you already use retinol comfortably and you're happy with the results, there's no reason skincare trends should convince you that you suddenly need to stop.
Retinol has an extensive evidence base and remains an effective skincare ingredient.
But if you've tried retinol and found the dryness, peeling or irritation difficult, or you're simply looking for a plant-derived active that takes a gentler approach, Bakuchiol is certainly worth knowing about.
The important thing is not whether your skincare routine contains the ingredient everyone is currently talking about.
It's whether the routine works for your skin.
The bottom line on Bakuchiol vs retinol
Bakuchiol isn't retinol in botanical clothing.
It's a completely different plant-derived compound that happens to show some interesting similarities in the way it supports the appearance of ageing and sun-damaged skin.
The research around Bakuchiol is still growing, but early clinical findings are promising, particularly when it comes to improving the appearance of fine lines and pigmentation while being better tolerated than retinol.
For us, that makes it an exciting ingredient.
Not because it promises to turn back the clock, but because it gives us another way to support healthy, resilient and beautiful skin as it naturally changes over time.
Interested in adding Bakuchiol to your routine?
Discover our Transforming Bakuchiol Face Oil, formulated with 2% Bakuchiol alongside nourishing plant oils to support smooth, healthy-looking skin.
Or, if you're not quite sure what your skin needs, take our free 2-minute Skincare Consultation and we'll help point you in the right direction.